🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.